DIY re bluing or send it out?

[dvmcmr]

Has anyone ever had good results doing a full re bluing job on a rifle that it looks good enough to call good?

I'm not looking for perfection, but don't want something that looks like a rube goldberg rig either.

I've tried some of the pastes and liquids over the year, with varying resluts that were not so grand.

Is there something out there that's worth a try, or is it just as easy to send it out and get it done right.

It's an old rilfe that's seen better days, but it's still comfortable, shoots well, and has some sentimental value.

[Luvs2Play]

I have only tried once, was a total failure in my mind. A customer of mine used to do it, he did some for my dad and they are at least as good as factory, if not even better.

[dvmcmr]

I guess that's why I'm asking. I have had some success, but nothing great, but I also think it can come out better.

[olderthandirt]

Nope, the ones I've tried didn't turn out well enough to make me happy. I don't think they make a do it yourself kit that can come close to a professional blueing.

[Berserker]

What are the price ranges for getting it done by a pro? Are there certain companies that do this?

[dvmcmr]

I know there are companies that sort of specialize in it, but can't name any off the top of my head. Most smiths or local gun shops that do smithing aren't set up for it, so it does tend to be a send out service.

[bigweatherby]

http://www.fordsguns.com/

http://www.robarguns.com/

http://www.hotflashrefinishing.com/

[dvmcmr]

Thanks. I didn't think there was a miracle bluing agent out there for DIY but figured maybe someone knew something....

Sending it out is probably the way I'll go.

[recoilguy]

I have tried to re blue twice. Both times I wish I had not tried. It is not something I have found the proper equipment to do nicely. I tried but it is not anything I will ever try on my own again.

RCG

[1shot1k]

Will a home (typical) cold bluing be the same as a hot commercial one as
to ...wear points/surfaces, .....no. It will not.

But for an acceptable means of rust removal, general surface protection and
an acceptable final look and coverage for weapon storage and use...yes, I have
performed what I would deem as OK results with doing my own coverage and
applications.

There was a similar topic recently, and I said I would add my comments and tips if
anyone wanted. While my past results were very acceptable to me, as for saving
a rusted surface(es) and gaining a very acceptable final coverage for a home performed
application, I did not nor would want any to be disappointed after their own trials
of what works OK for me....I have done complete rebluing of two revolvers, a 410,
and 2 .22 with pretty nice final results.

If indeed, anyone wants to know sincerely, how I was taught by my machinists friend
to do this properly, with cold chemical supplies as available now, I will put such out and post
here if desired. I will have to perform in Word and then just past here...as I type to slow when I
do such long stuff important to me, and usually time out on a post etc...

So let me know..and I will prepare it....there are not items needed you cant get, but you
must follow certain things...

Such as surface preparation (the 99.99999999 reason people have unsatisfactory results )

- need to obtain a "heat gun "...like for shrink tube use..or etc...
and follow procedures that I have been taught.


1shot1k

[olderthandirt]

I would definitly be interested in hearing how to do home blue that is acceptable. I looked at the links and the prices have shot through the roof since I had a shotgun re-blued. I payed $75 to a local gunsmith for a hot blueing and it still looks good.

I already have a heat gun and trays to dip in.

[1shot1k]

OK, I will type out my complete knowledge and operations on this.

I no longer have any of my previous work to send pics of, but will indeed
be glad to at least share what I have been taught and what I did on my
projects.

At least with my results, even if a final result is not perceived as what
one wants, the most you will have done is save the weapon from rust and
helped prepare the surface for an easier restripping and run through
by a professional hot application.


note: This is mainly for "complete" redo...not touch ups....but you can apply some knowledge towards
a touch up areas...etc..and keep that area rust free and protected...even if final blend not perfect etc...

I will get on it.

regards,

1shot1k

[dvmcmr]

Thanks 1shot, I'd be interested to and will follow it and see what happens.
I don't have anything to lose really.

[Berserker]

I am interested too. I got a removable barrel on .22 pistol, I want to try. Plus I got some spots on my 586.

[olderthandirt]

Will a home (typical) cold bluing be the same as a hot commercial one as
to ...wear points/surfaces, .....no. It will not.

But for an acceptable means of rust removal, general surface protection and
an acceptable final look and coverage for weapon storage and use...yes, I have
performed what I would deem as OK results with doing my own coverage and
applications.

There was a similar topic recently, and I said I would add my comments and tips if
anyone wanted. While my past results were very acceptable to me, as for saving
a rusted surface(es) and gaining a very acceptable final coverage for a home performed
application, I did not nor would want any to be disappointed after their own trials
of what works OK for me....I have done complete rebluing of two revolvers, a 410,
and 2 .22 with pretty nice final results.

If indeed, anyone wants to know sincerely, how I was taught by my machinists friend
to do this properly, with cold chemical supplies as available now, I will put such out and post
here if desired. I will have to perform in Word and then just past here...as I type to slow when I
do such long stuff important to me, and usually time out on a post etc...

So let me know..and I will prepare it....there are not items needed you cant get, but you
must follow certain things...

Such as surface preparation (the 99.99999999 reason people have unsatisfactory results )

- need to obtain a "heat gun "...like for shrink tube use..or etc...
and follow procedures that I have been taught.


1shot1k

Where are you 1shot? I need to know.................

[Luvs2Play]

He has been in the horsepickle for quite some time now chasing nurses around. He doesn't have access to internet and I haven't heard when he might be coming back.

[olderthandirt]

Prayer heading his way.
I hope he recovers fast and at least catches a few nurses :eagerness:

[Luvs2Play]

Last I heard, he got caught in a dark room on their internet. The nurse quickly removed him and put him back in his room.

[olgezzer]

I hasve used Brownells dicropan im bluing with good results for a few years as a cold rust bluing process, no boiling water. Polish part or gun the way you want it, degrease using acetone or lacquer thinner, apply bluing, let set for a day or two, card with fine steel wool, repeat. I usually use a tooth brush to apply a light coating, and sometimes use a stainless steel brush to card parts with uneven surfaces. Usually takes 4 to 6 coatings. It is easy and doesn't take a lot of time to apply a coating.

[Berserker]

What is card?

[olgezzer]

Carding is to polish or buff with steel wool. It cleans the bluing residue off and leaves the blued surface. The first couple of coats will leave a thin rust coating on surface. the last few coats will bead up and not leave a rust coating. I developed this process because the boiling water process that Brownells recommends did not work well due to contaminents in the tap water that I used. I noticed the im bluing contained nitric acid and remembered a rust bluing formula in a Dixie Gun Works catalog from 40 years ago also contained nitric acid. So I tried the im bluing in a cold rust bluing process and it produced good results after 5 or 6 coatings. Each coating doesn't take long to do and after the last coat you can wait a couple of days and oil it. It does not take much bluing to coat the surface but should be brushed until the entire surface is covered completely. This solution will produce a black oxide coating the same as the hot caustic bluing process. This becomes more durable with time and can be repeated as needed for touch up of scratches without removing old bluing.

[dvmcmr]

Good info, and the multiple coats is important. I have one I still need to get a couple of coats on yet.